Top rope auto belay accident what happened. Odds of that happening? Nearly impossible odds, but in climbing we need to account for the unexpected and use stringent safety measures including double checking that our belay device is locked on. Photo: masT3rOD /Flickr; CC BY 2. That grade is the upper limit of what I climb. In top-rope and lead belaying, we constantly check each other’s knots. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. Mar 3, 2025 · What happened? A few weeks ago, a climber in the Netherlands was pretty badly injured when the webbing (!) of an auto belay apparently snapped, causing them to fall from approximately 8 meters. 0 Feb 8, 2024 · An informal post on a climbing forum titled "Auto-belay Accident" is the most perfect, concise way to tell a reader, they are going to read about a climbing accident that occurred on an auto-belay. Most auto-belay accidents are the result of individuals failing to completely clip into the device, or forgetting to clip in entirely. Sep 23, 2016 · One of the main elements in the auto belay set-up that is different from regular top rope climbing, is the absence of a partner. In 2021, a young climber died after falling 43 feet from an auto belay–equipped route in Sydney, Australia. ANALYSIS Though fatal accidents at indoor climbing gyms are extremely rare, there have been multiple cases involving auto-belays. Yeah, auto-belays aren't being removed because they're bad engineering. Reply reply animalwitch •. ). We first responded by removing our Perfect Descent auto belays (Perfect Descent was a defendant in Jun 21, 2021 · The innocent lapses in attention that lead to auto-belay accidents are also to blame for top-rope and lead climbers who forget to finish their tie-in knots—mistakes with similarly dire consequences. There are countless ways to have a bouldering accident that results in a non-fatal injury, not so much in top rope. However, the most serious incidents reported in indoor climbing gyms — death, becoming paralyzed, and other severe forms of bodily harm — tend to happen on ropes and auto-belays. 10. Most of the accidents have happened when climbers were well into their climbing session. Climbing is inherently dangerous, and you can die in any way possible. Though fatal accidents at indoor climbing gyms are extremely rare, there have been multiple cases involving auto-belays. But on the auto-belay it’s up to the climber to double-check his or her system. Focus: The route I was on was a 5. Peters location when an accident on an auto-belay system occurred. How is it possible to go up without having a rope attached to you? Wouldn't you notice it? Whenever I go on the autobelay I check that I'm still attached in the beginning, at least once on the way up and Feb 8, 2024 · In the case of this accident, the belayer’s device unclipped from his harness just as the leader fell. Do autobelays fail? While autobelays are safe if used properly, and current models Jan 25, 2023 · Your monthly dose of climbing accident analysis from the editors of "Accidents in North American Climbing. Also in 2021, a 73-year-old man was seriously injured at a gym in Poland Being fearful of such accidents, I squeeze check the biner, pull check the auto belay rope and sometimes even jump off at 2 meters or so just to make sure I’m clipped in / the system is working. In 2014, conservationist Mark Hesse died in a similar accident in Colorado. even if the cause of the accident was failure to use the auto-belay altogether. This lawsuit really amped up the conversation. News article: Mountain Network - Ongeval These accidents are so common - a woman fell in our gym as well just a couple of weeks ago due to failing to clip in (luckily only minor injuries), and I really struggle to understand it. Jan 22, 2025 · Climbing Coach Recovering After Failing to Clip into Auto Belay Hector Diffut, 26, fell 30 feet from the top of an indoor wall after forgetting to clip into the auto belay. (The precise circumstances of the June 12 accident at Ascent Studio Climbing & Fitness are still unknown. Your two eyes are your only double-checking mechanism. They're being removed because it turns out a partner check is just ridiculously important to avoid accidents on ropes over the long run. Sources These are the prime sources for the part about it being a problem with the webbing (it was also covered in national media, though pretty briefly): 1. Also in 2021, a 73-year-old man was seriously injured at a gym in Poland, falling 30 feet Jan 15, 2024 · And almost all of these injuries are less serious than injuries from climbing on top rope, lead, or auto belay. In my haste I neglected to check anything. Oct 25, 2021 · A young man has passed away following a 43-foot fall off an autobelay-equipped route at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym in Sydney, Australia. Oct 22, 2021 · A man, reported to be in his 30s, was climbing at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym’s St. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. In the auto belay scenario you lack an extra set of eyes. Nov 22, 2022 · Though auto belay accidents happen every year, deaths are uncommon. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. " This month, we cover an increasingly common gym accident involving an auto belay; and the risk of rock fall at outdoor crags. One of the main elements in the auto belay set-up that is different from regular top rope climbing, is the absence of a partner. When things go wrong enough on top rope such that you would call it an “accident”, it tends to be pretty bad. lktjta dncxuv esipof jwwvs kwvyji amppifk hfdn fwaui lnymo fpc